Desde los años 70 el poke empezó a tomar popularidad este exquisito y saludable plato de origen Hawaiano, pero, no fue hasta 2015 y 2018, cuando los Foodies e influencers con sus fotografías en las redes sociales hicieron estallar en popularidad, así lo explica la historiadora gastronómica Rachel Laudan, autora del libro “Gastronomía e imperio: La cocina en la historia del mundo (2013)». Esto hace que nos preguntemos entonces, ¿hasta qué punto es una moda vs tradición Hawaiana?
Mark «Gooch» Noguchi, chef hawaiano nacido en el Valle de Manoa en Honolulu y propietario del Grupo Pili, comentaba en un artículo escrito para Firstwefeast que él y muchos de sus compañeros hawaianos echaron chispas al descubrir que su Poke se había convertido en la base de varias cadenas de comida rápida en los Estados Unidos.
No vamos a repetir las palabras que Gooch utilizó en el artículo para mostrar su irritación porque no viene al caso, pero para que te hagas una idea, venía a tener este formato: #$@&%*!
¿No es bueno que el mundo esté prestando atención al Poke y a la tradición gastronómica hawaiana?
Sí, lo es, pero según Gooch, “toda su vida ha sido testigo de la comodificación de la cultura hawaiana […] Somos una sociedad estrechamente vinculada al mar y a los productos que nos regala. Si no estás conectado espiritualmente con nuestra cultura, no vas a saber quién somos por muchas publicaciones en Instagram o Snapchat que pretendan enseñártelo”.
Apropiación cultural: de eso es de lo que habla Gooch, habla del Poke Bowl: moda vs. tradición Hawaiana.
Y nosotros, en Hula Poke, lo tenemos muy presente.
Sabemos lo difícil que es representar adecuadamente una tradición tan arraigada sin caer en estereotipos.
Entendemos lo difícil que es servir la comida de un país sin trivializar su cultura, sus tradiciones e incluso sus gentes.
Tenemos presente que las modas gastronómicas vienen y van sin conocer la tradición y la cultura a la que representan.
Y, precisamente por eso, intentamos cocinar y servir gastronomía hawaiana desde un lugar muy especial: desde el mayor Respeto.
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